'Fans will continue to be inspired by 80s terrace & casual culture' - the future of football fashion

When it comes to football fan fashion, the first thing that springs to your mind is (probably) the many different styles and colourways of Adidas trainers. Then it’s the retro-style track tops made popular by tennis icons of the 80s and 90s. Then maybe those weird jackets with the goggles attached to the hood. If even a couple of those are correct, then there are good reasons for that.

Many brands made popular in the 1980s, such as Ellesse, Pretty Green & Sergio Tacchini, remain staples in ordinary football fans' fashion to this day (Image - Callum Watt)

Many football fans’ clothing in the present day is heavily influenced by styles made popular in decades gone by – particularly by the ‘casuals’ subculture which rose to prominence in the 1980s. Casuals evolved off the back of skinheads, a movement of the late-70s and early-80s, and began to don sportswear brands based in Europe. These brands, such as Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini and Lacoste, started popping up on the terraces across the UK as the casual subculture took hold, and have remained a staple of football fan culture ever since (though thankfully they are no longer as closely associated with hooliganism).

Football Culture Club sat down with Brett, director of Edinburgh-based ‘retro and subculture shop’ It Started in the North to discuss how these sportswear brands came to influence terrace fashion for generations to come. Initially, Brett says, these brands helped the casuals stand out from the crowd.

“Casuals began to wear sportswear popularised in mainland Europe to distinguish themselves and initially to avoid attention from the police who were on the lookout for skinheads. In particular, tennis brands like Sergio Tacchini and Lacoste were prominent, as well as brands more associated with golf like Pringle or Lyle and Scott.”

It is easy, therefore, to draw comparisons between the casuals and the growing ‘ultras’ movement amongst football fans due to their designer gear and tendency to operate in large groups.

“I think the ultras movement in Scottish football has definitely been influenced by the casual scene in many ways – they wear many of the same brands and have also been known to dabble in fighting around grounds at times. Many of these groups are also highly organised, like a number of the Scottish casual firms.

“However, where casuals liked to stand out in their clothing, the ultras groups tend to wear all black for a more uniform look, which is inspired more by groups from other countries in Europe.”

Although ultras do sometimes partake in football violence, a much greater emphasis is placed on bettering the atmosphere inside grounds and the organised hooliganism synonymous with casuals has diminished greatly. The fashion has survived, though, and is now making a comeback amongst ordinary fans who simply appreciate the style.

“These brands are very much still popular today among both those old enough to remember their original heyday and younger generations as well”, Brett says.

“I believe this is because the early casual scene has been heavily glorified in films, TV and books and, while many don’t condone the violence (though some obviously do), I think large numbers of people still appreciate the originality and standout nature of the look developed by the early casuals.”

As football fan fashion continues to develop, Brett reckons we’ll see an increasing number of new brands popping up to complement the original, retro styles popularised by large sportswear labels.

“For me, football fan fashion will continue to be inspired by terrace and casual culture from the 80s but also develop in its own way by wearing smaller, independent brands that have developed around the scene.”

In the meantime, though, we can expect to continue seeing an abundance of Adidas trainers and colourful track tops on a matchday as the legacy of the most influential period in the development of fan culture lives on.